How to Install A Stretched Canvas into a Float Frame in 6 easy steps

Have you ever wondered how to install a stretched canvas into a float frame for that magical weightless look?

I'll talk you through each process, step by step.

Tools & Equipment needed; ruler, pencil, foam core/cardboard/mat board, drill or screwdriver, screws, double sided tape, hangers, wire & bumpons and a frame of course!

Step One: Ordering the Correct Frame Size

First, decide how much of a gap you want between the canvas and the frame. A standard gap seems to be about 1/4", but could be as little as 1/8" or as much as 1/2", for the purpose of this instruction, we'll go with 1/4".

Measure your stretched canvas, and allow an extra 1/4" around each side. That will be your frame size.

For example, this painting is 24x24", so my frame needs to be 24.5 x 24.5" to allow a 1/4" gap on all sides.

When picking your frame, measure the depth of your canvas, to make sure it doesn't stick out in front of the frame.

Step Two: "Wedge" the Canvas in the Frame

You'll need to cut strips of cardboard, foam core or mat board, that are the same depth as your frame. For example, my float frame internal depth is 1.5", so I cut strips of foam core the same width. My canvas is 24" x 24", so my strips are slightly over 24" long. You'll need an even amount for each side of the frame.

Place your stretched canvas in your float frame.

Place strips of foam core on all 4 sides, to create the 'gap'. You're looking for a fit tight enough to stop your canvas from wiggling in place, but not so tight that you can't remove the strips later. You may need to add thinner strips all around for a tight fit, but keep in mind these strips will be removed later, so I often only add the shorter strips in the corners, which are the crucial area that show the tell tale signs of a canvas being square in a float frame.

Stand back and make sure the gaps look even before moving to the next step.

Step Three: Securing the Canvas in Place

For this step, you will need screws long enough to go through your frame and into your canvas, but not so long that they come out of the front of your canvas!

Measure from the edge of your frame to the edge of your canvas, write this measurement down somewhere handy.

Take a deep breath and flip the canvas and frame over so it is face down on the table. If your strips are tight enough, the canvas will not move in this process.

TIP: If your canvas is recessed slightly in your float frame, place pieces of cardboard on the artwork so that when it is face down it stays snug to the back of the frame, you don't want it to fall forward.

Now take the measurement you recorded a moment ago and measure from the edge of the frame on the back, mark on the frame this measurement.

MIND THE GAP! Do not screw anywhere in the measure area, as your screw will show in the gap, wrecking the entire look and driving you to eat more chocolate than you should to get over it.

I usually place my screws 1/4 - 1/2" past this measurement, marking where I will drill in my screws, every 6 - 8" or so. Screws about an 1" from the corners are the most important.

Drill a pilot hole where you have marked, so that you don't split the frame.

Drill your screws into each pilot hole, I tend to place my hand under the artwork and lightly squeeze it towards the back of the frame, so that it pulls into a tight fit while tightening the screw.

Step Four; Remove the "Wedges"

Flip your frame over so that it is face up and remove all the strips that were used to hold that artwork evenly in place. The gap should look even between the canvas and the frame.

Step 5: Paper the Back

This is not a crucial step, it's only if you want the back to look neat and tidy 😉

Flip your frame back over so it's face down.

Run double sided tape around the edge of your frame.

Take a sheet of craft paper larger than your frame size and place it across the back and smooth down.

Trim off excess paper to the edge of the frame.

Step 6: Add Hangers & Wire

You can purchase different sized hangers and wire that are appropriate for the weight of your frame. I tend to err on the side of safety and go for hangers that might be considered overkill for the size and weight of the frame. I'd rather not have art work fall off the wall.

On this note I'm not a fan of the 3M hooks for anything over 8x10", having replaced many pieces of customers shattered glass in my custom framing days.

Measure approximately 2/3's of the way down from the top of your frame. Make a mark on the frame, being careful to come over enough so that you're not in the 'gap'. For example on my 25" outer measurement frame, I'd make a mark at just over 8" down, and come in about 1", to avoid the 'gap'.

Remember: MIND THE GAP! lf your screws show in the gap, it will wreck the entire look and turn you into a sobbing puddle on the floor. That's not a good look for anyone.

Hold the hanger in place over the mark you made, and drill in the screw. You can drill a pilot hole first if you prefer.

Loop the wire around the hangers twice and wind the excess wire back on itself.

There should be a bit of slack in the wire, but not excessive.